September 25, 1974 — Elsa Peretti debuts at Tiffany & Co., New York

“If diamonds are mounted like this the light is different. They look like drops of light, like a stream — very modern.”

Elsa Peretti — on Diamonds by the Yard, 1974
Pre-Owned — 18-Karat Gold Only — Authenticated In-House

Pre-Owned Tiffany & Co. Necklaces — The Designs That Changed How Diamonds Are Worn

Tiffany & Co. necklaces occupy a specific place in the history of American fine jewelry. Before Elsa Peretti joined the house in 1974 and introduced Diamonds by the Yard — bezel-set diamonds spaced along a fine 18-karat gold chain — diamond necklaces were formal objects, worn to significant occasions, given as gifts, displayed rather than lived in. Peretti changed that. She designed diamonds for daily wear, for women buying for themselves, for the relationship between jewelry and the body rather than between jewelry and the occasion.

That shift established the terms for every major Tiffany necklace that followed: the Open Heart pendant as a personal sentiment worn close to the body; Paloma Picasso’s colored gemstone drops as color brought to the throat with an artist’s confidence; the Tiffany T as a graphic identity statement for the woman who wears her personality rather than her status. At Opulent Jewelers, we carry pre-owned Tiffany necklaces exclusively in 18-karat gold, individually authenticated before listing.

Design History

Three Tiffany Necklaces That Defined the Category

01
Elsa Peretti — 1974

Diamonds by the Yard

Peretti introduced Diamonds by the Yard on September 25, 1974 — the day she debuted at Tiffany, when over 2,000 people attended her first personal appearance. The design was radical in its simplicity: round brilliant diamonds, each set in an individual 18-karat gold bezel, spaced along a fine continuous chain. No formal mounting, no central stone, no hierarchy — just diamonds worn as casually as a chain, available in any length, wearable every day. Before Diamonds by the Yard, a diamond necklace was a formal object. After it, diamonds became something a woman put on in the morning without thinking twice. The design had been more than 10% of Tiffany’s business at various points in Peretti’s tenure. Pre-owned Diamonds by the Yard in 18-karat yellow gold is the most actively traded Peretti necklace format on the secondary market.

Available with one stone, three stones, or as a continuous diamond necklace in varying carat weights — all in 18-karat yellow, white, or rose gold.
02
Tiffany & Co. — Modern Collection

Tiffany T & Victoria Necklaces

The Tiffany T necklace, launched in 2014, translated the collection’s clean graphic vocabulary into pendant form: the T-bar pendant in 18-karat rose, yellow, or white gold, with and without pavé diamond accents, on a fine chain. It is the most wearable and most contemporary Tiffany necklace format and the most actively traded from the house’s recent production. The Victoria diamond necklace — featuring the house’s layered marquise and round brilliant diamond motif in 18-karat white gold — is the most formally dressed Tiffany necklace format, the one most associated with the Academy Awards, the Met Gala, and occasions where the necklace is the primary statement. Pre-owned Victoria necklaces carry both the intrinsic value of exceptional diamond content and the cultural recognition of one of Tiffany’s most photographed designs.

T necklace in 18k rose, yellow, and white gold — with and without diamond pavé. Victoria in 18k white gold with marquise and round brilliant diamonds.
03
Jean Schlumberger — Est. 1956

Schlumberger Pendant Necklaces

Jean Schlumberger’s pendant necklaces for Tiffany — botanical gold forms, enamel and stone pendants, nature-inspired motifs rendered with surrealist precision — are the most historically significant and most rarely available Tiffany necklace format. Schlumberger’s work at Tiffany attracted Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy, and Diana Vreeland. He was the first designer to mount the Tiffany Yellow Diamond — the 128.54-carat fancy yellow diamond — in a jewel. Pre-owned Schlumberger necklaces appear infrequently on the secondary market and represent significant acquisitions when authenticated examples in fine condition are available.

Produced in very limited quantities from 1956 through Schlumberger’s retirement in the late 1970s — each piece individually verified for house signature and designer attribution before listing.
Shop by Collection

All Tiffany Necklace Collections We Carry

Elsa Peretti — 1974

Diamonds by the Yard

Fine 18-karat gold chain with individually bezel-set round brilliant diamonds. The most revolutionary and most collected Peretti necklace format. Available in single-stone, three-stone, and multi-stone continuous configurations in yellow, white, and rose gold. Pre-owned examples at 20–40% below current boutique retail.

Elsa Peretti — 1974

Open Heart Pendant

An asymmetric heart outline suspended from a fine 18-karat gold chain — one of the most recognizable pendant designs in fine jewelry and consistently among the most gifted Tiffany pieces. The Open Heart in 18-karat yellow gold is the most actively traded Peretti pendant on the secondary market. Available in multiple sizes; with and without diamond accents.

Elsa Peretti — 1974

Bean Pendant

An abstracted lima bean form in 18-karat gold — polished to a mirror finish, shaped with the organic precision that defined Peretti’s entire design vocabulary. The Bean pendant is among Peretti’s earliest and most enduring designs for Tiffany; pre-owned examples in 18-karat yellow gold are consistently collected for their combination of sculptural simplicity and unmistakable identity.

Modern — Est. 2014

Tiffany T Necklace

The T-bar pendant in 18-karat rose, yellow, and white gold — with and without pavé diamond accents. The most contemporary and most wearable Tiffany pendant format from the house’s recent production, and the most actively traded on the secondary market from this period. The T Wire necklace variation, featuring the T motif in a delicate wire construction, is the most minimal format in the collection.

Modern — Diamond Collection

Victoria Diamond Necklace

Layered marquise and round brilliant diamonds in 18-karat white gold — Tiffany’s most formally dressed necklace format and the one most frequently worn to significant occasions. Pre-owned Victoria necklaces carry intrinsic diamond value alongside the cultural recognition of one of the house’s most photographed designs. Stone weight and configuration determine pricing on individual pieces.

Paloma Picasso — Est. 1980

Paloma Picasso Necklaces

Olive Leaf pendant necklaces, Loving Heart designs, and bold colored gemstone drops in 18-karat gold — Picasso’s necklace work carries the chromatic boldness of her father’s painting into fine jewelry, using large cabochon-cut rubies, sapphires, and tourmalines in sculptural gold settings. Early Paloma Picasso necklaces from the 1980s carry their own collector following entirely distinct from the mainstream Tiffany market.

Modern — Est. 2019

Tiffany Knot & HardWear

The Tiffany Knot pendant in 18-karat yellow and white gold — a three-dimensional interlocking form that reads as both architectural and organic — is the most recent addition to the house’s necklace vocabulary and among the most distinctive. HardWear chain link necklaces in 18-karat yellow gold bring the bold oval link format from the bracelet collection into the necklace category with the same deliberate scale and weight.

Authentication

What We Verify on Every Pre-Owned Tiffany Necklace

House Signature & Hallmark

Every authentic Tiffany necklace carries "TIFFANY & CO." engraved on the clasp alongside the 18-karat hallmark ("750" or "18K"). All pieces at Opulent Jewelers are 18-karat gold. The signature uses Tiffany’s specific serif letterform with consistent engraving depth — stamped, shallow, or inconsistently spaced signatures are flagged and not listed.

Designer Attribution

Peretti pieces carry "ELSA PERETTI" alongside the Tiffany signature on the clasp or pendant reverse. Paloma Picasso pieces carry "PALOMA PICASSO." Schlumberger pieces carry "SCHLUMBERGER." These attributions are assessed for letterform consistency and completeness against known production standards for each designer’s period at the house.

Chain & Clasp Integrity

The clasp is the primary location for the Tiffany signature and hallmark and is therefore the most frequently examined component. Clasp mechanism security, lobster-claw action, and link integrity are assessed on every piece. Replacement clasps — even in the correct metal — are disclosed explicitly in every listing, as the house signature on the clasp is part of the piece’s provenance.

Diamond & Stone Quality

On Diamonds by the Yard, each bezel-set diamond is assessed for stone security, bezel integrity, and clarity consistency across the necklace. On diamond pendant necklaces, prong work and stone security are examined stone-by-stone. On Paloma Picasso colored gemstone pieces, stone security and setting integrity are assessed and any chips, cracks, or replaced stones are disclosed.

The Opulent Jewelers Promise

Every pre-owned Tiffany necklace is authenticated in-house before listing — house signature, designer attribution, 18-karat hallmark, chain integrity, and stone security verified on every piece, backed by our money-back guarantee.

♦ Authenticated In-House ♦ Free Shipping ♦ Money-Back Guarantee
Common Questions

Pre-Owned Tiffany Necklaces — What Buyers Ask

Diamonds by the Yard was designed by Elsa Peretti shortly after she joined Tiffany in September 1974. The concept was radical: round brilliant diamonds, each individually bezel-set in an 18-karat gold mount, spaced at intervals along a fine continuous chain — available in any length, wearable every day, and purchased by women for themselves rather than received as formal gifts. Before Diamonds by the Yard, diamond necklaces were formal objects associated with significant occasions. Peretti’s design changed that permanently. The collection became as much as 10% of Tiffany’s total sales at various points. Pre-owned Diamonds by the Yard in 18-karat gold is the most actively traded Peretti necklace format on the secondary market. Browse our pre-owned Tiffany necklace collection.

The primary authentication points on a Tiffany necklace are the clasp engraving and the 18-karat hallmark. The clasp should carry "TIFFANY & CO." in the house’s specific serif letterform alongside "750" or "18K." Designer-attributed pieces should carry the designer’s name ("ELSA PERETTI," "PALOMA PICASSO," "SCHLUMBERGER") alongside the Tiffany mark. On Diamonds by the Yard specifically, each bezel should be individually and precisely fitted to its stone — consistent bezel construction and diamond security across the full length is a strong indicator of genuine production. Weight is also meaningful: 18-karat gold chains have a specific density that gold-filled or plated alternatives cannot replicate.

All Tiffany necklaces at Opulent Jewelers are 18-karat gold. Diamonds by the Yard single-stone pendants in 18-karat yellow gold range from $400–$1,200 depending on stone size and condition. Multi-stone Diamonds by the Yard necklaces range from $1,500–$8,000 depending on total carat weight. Open Heart and Bean pendants in 18-karat gold range from $300–$1,000. Tiffany T necklaces range from $700–$2,500. Victoria diamond necklaces range from $3,000–$10,000+ depending on diamond weight. Paloma Picasso and Schlumberger pieces are priced individually. All pricing reflects current secondary market conditions.

Yes. Elsa Peretti passed away in March 2021. Tiffany & Co. continues to produce Diamonds by the Yard and other Peretti designs under a licensing agreement with the Elsa Peretti estate. The collection continues to be a significant part of Tiffany’s business. However, pieces produced during Peretti’s lifetime — particularly from the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s when she was actively involved in production oversight — carry historical significance for collectors that current production pieces do not. Pre-owned Diamonds by the Yard from these earlier decades are actively sought by collectors who understand the difference.

Yes. We purchase Tiffany necklaces outright and accept pieces on consignment — Diamonds by the Yard, Open Heart, Bean pendant, Tiffany T, Victoria, HardWear, Tiffany Knot, Paloma Picasso, Schlumberger, and all other Tiffany necklace formats in 18-karat gold. We authenticate every piece we take in before listing. Reach out through our consignment inquiry page to discuss a specific piece.

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