Cartier Collections
Opulent Jewelers Reference
Cartier Collection Encyclopedia
The Cartier Collection Encyclopedia is Opulent Jewelers' reference library for Cartier's signed jewelry collections. Each entry covers the collection's history, designers, materials, defining pieces, cultural context, and authentication checkpoints. The encyclopedia is organized by design tradition: pillar collections (Love, Trinity, Juste un Clou, Panthère de Cartier), contemporary collections (Clash, Agrafe, Amulette, Maillon Panthère), and heritage styles (Le Baiser du Dragon, Tutti Frutti). The encyclopedia covers jewelry collections only; Cartier's watch collections, including Tank, Santos, and the Panthère de Cartier watch, are covered separately.
Ten signed Cartier collections. Every history, every designer, every authentication checkpoint — written with the precision the maison's pieces deserve.
The Pillar Collections
Four collections form the foundation of Cartier's twentieth-century jewelry portfolio. Each occupies its own design register; together they constitute the maison's defining design vocabulary.
Love
The screw-locked bracelet that fundamentally changed what fine jewelry could mean. Designed by Aldo Cipullo at Cartier New York in 1969 and originally given as a pair to be locked onto two wrists with a single screwdriver.
1924 — Louis CartierTrinity
Three interlocking bands of different golds, moving independently around one another. The oldest Cartier jewelry collection in continuous production — designed by Louis Cartier in 1924, centenary celebrated in 2024.
1971 — Aldo CipulloJuste un Clou
A construction nail bent around the wrist in 18-karat gold. Cipullo's most subversive design, two years after the Love bracelet. Discontinued in the 1970s, relaunched in 2012 for Cartier's 165th anniversary.
1914 — Jeanne ToussaintPanthère de Cartier
The figurative panther motif — Cartier's most iconic animal signature since 1914. Developed by Jeanne Toussaint; defined by the 1948 brooch commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for Wallis Simpson on a 116.74-carat cabochon emerald.
Contemporary Collections
Four collections from the past two decades represent Cartier's evolving contemporary design vocabulary — from talisman concepts to articulated link engineering to studs-meet-haute-joaillerie.
Clash de Cartier
Studs, beads, and clous de Paris combined in deliberate visual tension. Articulated link construction with up to 600 hand-assembled components. Cartier's most engineered contemporary collection and its first with a distinct streetwear aesthetic.
Contemporary High JewelryAgrafe
"Agrafe" means "clasp" or "hook fastener" in French. An interlocking hook-form motif rendered in 18-karat white gold with pavé diamonds. Cartier's most architecturally rigorous contemporary collection — a specialist's piece.
2014Amulette de Cartier
A circular padlock-form pendant with a natural cabochon gemstone and center diamond. Each piece designed as a talisman, with the stone selection carrying documented symbolism. The collection that put Cartier necklaces front and center.
2017 — Link from 1983 Panthère watchMaillon Panthère
"Maillon" means "link." Bracelets, wedding bands, rings, and earrings built from rows of curved-and-polished 18K gold links — the link first introduced on the 1983 Panthère de Cartier watch bracelet, formalized as a jewelry collection around the 2017 watch revival.
Heritage Styles
Two collections that represent Cartier's deepest historical and contemporary high jewelry traditions — one rooted in Mughal India, one in early twenty-first century Chinoiserie.
Le Baiser du Dragon
"The Kiss of the Dragon" — a Chinoiserie collection in 18-karat gold with rubies, onyx, and pavé diamonds. The dragon's-head motif, executed with the architectural precision of Cartier high jewelry.
1920s–1930s — Cartier BrothersTutti Frutti
Carved emeralds, rubies, and sapphires in leaf, berry, and floral forms on platinum frameworks. Inspired by Mughal India through Jacques Cartier's travels from 1911 onward. The Daisy Fellowes Collier Hindou (1936) sold at Sotheby's in 1991 for $2,655,172, then a record for Art Deco jewelry.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are Cartier's most iconic jewelry collections?
Cartier's four pillar jewelry collections are Love (1969, Aldo Cipullo), Trinity (1924, Louis Cartier), Juste un Clou (1971, Aldo Cipullo), and Panthère de Cartier (1914 origin, Jeanne Toussaint). These four are the foundation of the maison's twentieth-century jewelry portfolio. Contemporary collections include Clash de Cartier, Agrafe, Amulette de Cartier, and Maillon Panthère. Heritage styles include Tutti Frutti (1920s-1930s) and Le Baiser du Dragon (2003).
Who designed Cartier's iconic collections?
Louis Cartier designed Trinity in 1924. Aldo Cipullo designed Love (1969) and Juste un Clou (1971) at Cartier New York. Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier's Director of Haute Joaillerie from 1933, developed the Panthère into the maison's signature animal motif, working with designer Peter Lemarchand. The Cartier brothers — Louis, Pierre, and Jacques — collaboratively developed the Tutti Frutti style from the 1910s onward. Contemporary collections are products of Cartier's design teams under the maison's creative direction.
Which is the oldest Cartier jewelry collection still in production?
Trinity, introduced in 1924, is the oldest Cartier jewelry collection in continuous production. The Panthère motif first appeared in 1914 but its three-dimensional figurative jewelry form was developed from 1948 onward. Trinity celebrated its centenary in 2024.
What's the difference between Panthère de Cartier and Maillon Panthère?
Panthère de Cartier is the figurative panther jewelry — sculptural three-dimensional panthers with onyx spots, emerald eyes, and pavé diamond bodies. Maillon Panthère is a separate jewelry collection built around the curved-and-polished link from the 1983 Panthère de Cartier watch bracelet, formalized as a jewelry line around the 2017 watch revival. They share the panther name but address different design vocabularies — one is figurative, the other is abstract.
Does this encyclopedia cover Cartier watches?
No. The Cartier Collection Encyclopedia covers Cartier's jewelry collections only. Cartier's watch collections, including the Tank (1917), Santos (1904), Ballon Bleu, Pasha, and the Panthère de Cartier watch (1983, revived 2017), are distinct design lineages and warrant their own reference treatment.
How are pre-owned Cartier collections authenticated at Opulent Jewelers?
Every Cartier piece at Opulent Jewelers is individually authenticated before listing. Authentication verifies signature engraving, hallmarks, serial numbers, collection-specific construction details, stone authenticity, and overall craftsmanship. Each piece is covered by our money-back authenticity guarantee. See our Cartier Authentication Center for the complete framework.
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Pre-Owned Cartier at Opulent Jewelers
Every Cartier piece in our inventory is individually authenticated before listing and accompanied by our money-back authenticity guarantee. Pieces from across the collections covered in this encyclopedia rotate through inventory regularly.